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The Tamil Prince: Islington’s Michelin-Featured Desi Pub Reinventing South Asian Dining

Writer: Kenneth Hopkins
Kenneth Hopkins
2 hours ago
3 min read

It is a pairing so obviously brilliant that you wonder why there aren't more of them: a beautifully restored neighborhood British pub serving up sharing plates of phenomenal Indian food. While the "desi pub" concept has existed for years, The Tamil Prince in Barnsbury, Islington, has elevated it to a fine art.

Taking over the quiet corner pub formerly known as The Cuckoo, The Tamil Prince has quickly rocketed to the top of London's must-visit dining lists, earning high praise from critics and securing a well-deserved spot in the MICHELIN Guide.

The Visionaries Behind the Kitchen

The hype surrounding The Tamil Prince is entirely justified when you look at its pedigree. The restaurant is the brainchild of executive chef Prince Durairaj (formerly of the legendary Roti King) and general manager Glen Leeson (formerly of the slick dining conglomerate JKS). Together, they have crafted a menu that is nominally inspired by Durairaj’s home state of Tamil Nadu, while occasionally venturing into bold Northern territories.

Rather than serving standard, heavy curries, the kitchen fires out highly refined, intensely seasoned dishes that rival the standard of Mayfair's premium Indian restaurants—all within the cozy, relaxed setting of an N1 boozer.

Menu Highlights: What to Order

The menu is relatively short but highly impactful, divided naturally into small plates and larger curries, with a strong emphasis on spectacular vegetarian options.

  • The Small Plates: The onion bhajis here are not your average heavy starters; they are feathery-light, crisp, and served with a vibrant mint chutney. The spiced chicken lollipops and crispy fried okra are addictive, but the true star of the smaller dishes is the pulled beef masala uttapum. This thick, spongy dosa-like base is packed with shredded, intensely flavored beef and served with a deeply punchy chili coconut chutney.

  • The Large Plates: For mains, the paneer butter masala features a sweet, pungent, crimson sauce perfect for dunking fresh rotis. Meat lovers flock to the rich Chettinad lamb curry and the Thanjavur chicken curry.

  • The Classics: Do not skip the channa bhatura—a giant, pillowy deep-fried dough served alongside a deeply satisfying and spiced chickpea curry—or the incredibly dark and creamy dal makhani.

The Drinks: Craft Beer and Bespoke Cocktails

A pub is only as good as its bar, and The Tamil Prince takes its beverage program just as seriously as its food. The cocktail menu was developed by Simone Pugi, formerly of Soho’s famous Bar Termini. The drinks are highly imaginative, beautifully weaving in South Asian aromatics like cardamom, rose water, and fresh lime to cut through the rich spices of the food.

If cocktails aren't your preference, the bar remains true to its pub roots, offering a solid rotation of craft beers on tap that perfectly match the punchy seasoning of the kitchen.

The Vibe and How to Get a Table

Inside, The Tamil Prince retains all the hallmarks of a classic, cozy British pub, but with clever aesthetic nods to its culinary roots. You will find your food served on traditional brass plates, while water and drinks arrive in old Indian tea glasses. The atmosphere is consistently upbeat, lively, and incredibly welcoming (they are even dog-friendly).

The Catch? Getting a table requires some planning. Because of its massive popularity and relatively cozy size, reservations are highly competitive.

  • Booking Tips: Reservations open exactly 28 days in advance at 10:00 AM via their official website. If you miss out, they do keep a few seats at the bar reserved for walk-ins, but be prepared to queue early.

In short, The Tamil Prince proves that the iconic duo of a "curry and a pint" is alive, well, and more sophisticated than ever.

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